Surf's Up: In Which I Wipe Out, Drink Salt Water And Fall In Love With Surfing

Surf's Up: In Which I Wipe Out, Drink Salt Water And Fall In Love With Surfing

Published in PRIMOLife Magazine April 2015

I clear salt water out of my nose for the thousandth time, spit out a mouthful of sand and look around. My fellow beginners are in varying stages of surf: some unsteadily getting on their feet, some lying flat on their bellies, cruising in the whitewash, some wading back out into the line of breakers.

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